“Quality is generally transparent when present, but easily recognized in its absence.” – Alan Gillies
I am striving to produce Miniature Schnauzer puppies with sound minds and healthy bodies that fit the American Miniature Schnauzer Club/AKC standard of perfection. Ultimately, these dogs are produced to provide their families with many years of beauty and joy.

If you have never owned a Miniature Schnauzer and are curious about traits of the breed, this website has a fairly accurate description: http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/miniatureschnauzer.htm Although the part about only shaving them down twice a year is inaccurate. Each dog is an individual and has it's own personality, just like human beings. And just like children, a lot of how they behave depends on how they are raised. Too much discipline can create fear, but no discipline creates a monster - which tends to be the case with the little dogs. They are so cute and cuddly that many people have a hard time telling them "NO".
A note on low-shedding dogs: While they won't leave hair all over the place, they are not necessarily hypo-allergenic as many people claim. People with dog allergies are typically allergic to "dander". A low-shedding dog can still have dander but usually not as much as a normal shedding dog due to their coat and the grooming they receive. However, someone with severe dog allergies may still have a problem. If you have dog allergies, it would be best to spend some time with Schnauzers and see if you have a reaction before deciding to buy one. I am always happy to let approved people meet my dogs so if you need to do an allergy test, I will be happy to schedule a visit with you. However, we do have a couple cat residents so it could skew your results.
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My dogs are fed Muenster Milling Company dog food that is soaked in water. They may not be a big chain or well known name but they have a very good product, excellent customer service and it ships right to my door with auto ship. I have fed the Perfect Balance Chicken, Perfect Balance Pork (low fat blend), or Ancient Grains with Ocean Fish in the past and currently am using the Ancient Grains w/ Chicken. I occasionally customize the bags with Salmon or MCT oil and extra probiotics.
Use coupon code ROBISON40 to receive 40% off your first order. Full disclosure - I do earn credit for my referral which helps me to get a discount on my food. I go through about a bag a week so appreciate you using my coupon codes (feel free to share with friends and family!) or clicking one of the bags below that have my affiliate link in them.
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PORK CHICKEN OCEAN FISH
Tips on choosing your breeder
Ideally, a puppy buyer can at least meet the mother of the litter and see how she is kept. However, if someone else owns the dad (which is fairly common) you might not get to meet him. It used to be that everyone would recommend that if the breeder would not allow visitors and wanted to meet at a different location that is was a bad situation and should be avoided. However, there have been quite a few stories of people visiting breeders under the guise of being puppy buyers and then either stealing dogs/puppies, harming the breeder/dogs/puppies, or setting them up for Animal Rights Activists to do damage. So now some very good and reputable breeders are not allowing people to visit in person. In these cases, you should get lots of videos and photos, possibly even a live video chat. You have to keep in mind that in most cases, the dogs are being kept at the breeder's private family residence and they need to keep the safety of their family (which oftentimes includes young children) and dogs as their top priority. Ask for contact information from previous puppy buyers and contact them to ask about their experience. My Facebook business page has reviews on it from my buyers. Once you are on the waiting list, you are invited to join the private Facebook group for my past and future puppy families to keep in touch so it would be easy to get reviews there.
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Miniature Schnauzers are prone to eye issues and the national breed club recommends all breeding dogs have a clear Ophthalmology exam every year and that all puppies also be checked prior to going to their new homes. Some bloodlines have risk of an inherited muscle disorder called Myotonia Congenita so at least one parent should have a clear DNA test so as not to risk producing affected puppies. The same goes for a mutation known as MAC (Mycobacterium Avium Complex) which is an immune system disorder that is rare but fatal if contracted. Both problems are considered "recessive" which means that the puppy would have to get a copy of the "bad gene" from both parents. So as long as one parent has a test designated as "clear" than none of the puppies should ever be affected. Don't just take their word for it! Make sure the breeder provides you with a copy of the test (my tests are posted with each dog's photos). Miniature Schnauzers are not prone to hip or elbow dysplasia so those are not recommended tests but some people will submit testing results for Luxating Patellas to OFA.
You can ask about any history of issues in their bloodlines but it all comes down to them being honest at that point. If the breeder only owns the mother they might not know the history on the dad. Again, it comes down to the stud dog owner being honest with the owner of the mother. The national breed club website www.amsc.us has good information about health issues.
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ADOPT OR SHOP ~ RESPONSIBLY
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What health problems are Miniature Schnauzers prone to?
Overall, this breed is healthy. The most common issues with them are eye problems and diet related issues. Every purebred breed has one or more genetic defects that are particular to it's breed and Miniature schnauzers are no different. Cross bred dogs, while touted as being healthier than purebreds, have actually been noted to express genetic defects common to all of the breeds used in the cross.
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It is estimated that all dogs, whether purebred or mixed, carry the genetic material to possibly produce 3 to 5 genetic health issues in their offspring! Amazingly, more often than not, we all get lucky and the puppies are healthy. Genetic Disorders in dogs are one of the main reasons someone interested in a dog as a pet should do their research. Some issues are avoided or greatly reduced with a good diet.
The most common health problems with Miniature Schnauzers are the inherited eye problems retinal dysplasia and cataracts which will cause greatly reduced vision or complete blindness. This is why all of my sires and dams have their eyes checked annually before breeding. However, this is a phenotypic test, not a DNA based test so even two clear eyed parents can produce puppies with bad eyes if it is a condition that we don't have a DNA test for. That is why all puppies are also checked before going to new homes but some eye issues are late onset and don't show up until they are 3+ years old. If you are researching breeders and a Veterinary Ophthalmologist exam doesn't come with the puppy, go elsewhere. It's an easy exam and the baseline for every eye disorder that can come afterwards. A routine vet check with a general practitioner will not catch eye issues as the eyes must be dilated and viewed with special tools.
Listed are some other well known health issues in Miniature Schnauzers:
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pancreatitis
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diabetes
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hypothyroidism
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hyperlipidemia
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Cushings disease
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Addison’s disease
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Liver problems, such as hepatic shunts
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Kidney problems: bladder stones and UTIs
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Periodonatal desease and tooth loss or misalignment
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Some of these diseases can sometimes be avoided (or, at least, are less exacerbated) by feeding your mini schnauzer a good diet, avoiding junk food and table scraps, and keeping treats to a minimum. The makers of NuVet claim that their supplement, when given daily and for life, can also help to lesson many of the listed issues. I am not opposed to a dog having good quality human food such as meat, vegetables, and fruits. However, seasoning should be avoided and some fruits and veggies are toxic so make sure to check before feeding.
Miniature Schnauzers can put on weight very easily and their bodies don’t do well processing fats, so a wholesome diet is mandatory. Due to the fact that many of the above mentioned issues can be avoided or controlled with diet, most of them are not covered by my warranty. Someone that owns this breed should be aware of these issues and I am not going to be responsible for someone that cannot keep from feeding their dog table scraps or overloading them with manufactured treats. Many dogs love fresh veggies such as carrots and green beans for treats or they are happy to have their own dry kibble as a treat if it is coming from your hand one bite at a time.
Periodontal disease can be an issue so it is important to brush their teeth at least once a week, preferably 2-3 times per week. Some studies have even linked gum disease/infection with heart disease so it is imperative that you monitor your Schnauzer's mouth. Genetics plays a role but maintenance is very important. Be careful in offering super hard chews as this can exacerbate teeth issues. Offer bully sticks, yak chews, beef trachea, etc. Do NOT use antlers/horns as they are way too hard. http://www.vohc.org/VOHCAcceptedProductsTable_Dogs.pdf
Puppies can be prone to misalignment of puppy teeth including a mild overshot or undershot bite and base narrow bottom canines. Most of the time, these issues correct when the adult teeth come in and require no intervention but some vets want to remove puppy teeth. I find this to be unnecessary in all but super severe cases. Here is an article that is helpful:
https://www.sonoranstandarddoodles.com/bnc
There are some skin problems with this breed: schnauzer bumps (schnauzer comedo syndrome), skin allergies, and hot spots (usually the result of poor diet and little exercise). Some people claim that stripping the coat of a Schnauzer once a year will minimize these issues but I am not certain of those claims. I have had many Schnauzers that have never been stripped that have never had any skin issues. My dogs also do not get bathed constantly, maybe only 4-6 times a year. I believe that too much bathing strips the necessary oils and can cause long term issues. Keeping the faces and furnishings clean is usually enough because that is usually what picks up most dirt and odors. Raking the coat before shaving to remove dead hair from the follicles is another good thing to do to help keep the follicles from clogging.
These days many dogs of many breeds have been noted to have allergies to corn, wheat, and low-grade meat products and the Miniature Schnauzer is not exempt. So, again, diet is very important. However, if your dog does not appear to have any issues with food that has grains in it, I see no reason that a grain free diet be mandatory. Owners do need to avoid foods that have replaced grains with a bunch of potato and pea products as it is currently suspected to be causing Taurine Deficiency which leads to a deadly heart condition. Any kibble you choose should have meat or a meat meal as the first ingredient. Some very popular foods and even prescription diets are not using meat or meat meal as the first ingredient. Dogs are carnivores and should be fed as such!
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For anyone with one to a few dogs, a pet insurance plan isn't a bad idea. There are several companies out there that provide pet insurance and you should do your own homework. My puppies go home with an offer from Trupanion Pet Insurance that gives the first 30 days at no cost with no obligation to sign up and new owners are expected to take advantage of that offer. When you register your pup through AKC, they also will give you 30 days of free insurance with a different company. Some people wait to register their pup when the Trupanion offer is running out so that they can get the first 60 days covered while they shop for the company they want to stick with.
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Information about puppy vaccinations.
Every vet is going to say something different and it usually depends on location and exposure rates. We start at 6 weeks with a "5 way" vaccine and give the first booster at 9 weeks. It is then up to the new homes to have their third booster at 12-13 weeks and the last one at 16 weeks. The reason for booster vaccines is because the puppy’s body has antibodies from mom’s milk that actually counteract the vaccine. Although the antibodies help defend the pups against other diseases it also makes it so the dog's immune system does not properly recognize and create it's own antibodies for the viruses we're trying to mimic by giving the vaccine to begin with. In order to help make sure the pup is protected, you continue to boost the vaccine until all of the mother's antibodies are out of the dog's system and it can start creating it's own antibodies for said viruses, which is between 12 and 16 weeks of age. Each puppy has their own timeline as to when those antibodies are no longer in effect so to insure protection, it is recommended that they have their last booster at or slightly after 16 weeks of age.
Preferred method of communication?
Email works the best for me. I am happy to talk with you over the phone or schedule a visit, especially when we first begin our relationship so that we can get a good feel for each other. After that, I prefer email because it lets me answer questions at midnight or 5 a.m. if that is when I have time. What can take me 5 minutes to answer in an email routinely turns into an hour long phone conversation when I'm trying to get other stuff done and I am not good at multi-tasking. If it is not vitally important to have the answer asap, please send an email and I will get back to you within 24 hours.
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Do you ship puppies?
Absolutely not. I understand how difficult it can be to find a quality Miniature Schnauzer close to home. However, I have made the conscious decision to not ship my puppies. Legally in any instance where a breeder is active in "retail sales (including adoption) of dogs where the buyer, seller, and dog are not physically together in the same place so the buyer can observe the animal prior to purchase or taking custody" requires a USDA license which I do not have but would be required to get if I shipped puppies. This includes the use of Flight Nannies because payment must be made prior to the flight so the puppy is already yours and you don't really have the option to refuse it once the Nanny hands it to you. While I would really like people to meet the parents and see the dogs and puppies in person and know that they are happy with where their pup is coming from I am able to meet you at Columbus International Airport (CMH) at which time you can determine that the pup is in acceptable condition before completing the purchase.
How do I reserve a puppy?
View the "Waiting List" page for full details. In the event that there are multiple litters ready around the same time, you will possibly choose from multiple litters. For example, if you are slotted for first pick of salt and pepper females and 2 different litters are ready to go at the same time and have salt and pepper females, you meet all available salt and pepper females from both litters. If there are multiple litters but they are ready to leave at different times, you will only be offered a spot from a particular litter.
​Puppies are ready to leave around 9-10 weeks of age. Once notified that your puppy is ready to go home, you will have 7 days to pick it up before an additional $10.00 per day will be added for board and care of the puppy. Belle Vista always reserves first pick for ourselves regardless of deposits taken.
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Can I visit?
If you have been approved - Most definitely! I'm always happy to schedule a visit to meet the dogs and let you see how they are kept before committing to Belle Vista for your next Schnauzer. Plan ahead and visit before you are offered a spot in a litter. Once I contact you offering you a spot in a litter, there isn't time for people to visit before committing. If people are not 100% positive I'm the breeder they want to work with, it can mean they lose out on the litter due to their hesitation. Remember, I only give 12 hours for you to accept a spot that I offer you before moving to the next person. If you want to visit, come before notification of available puppies. You don't get to choose your puppy until pick up day so even if you visit when they are 6 weeks, it's just for socialization and not so you can pick your puppy. Puppies' immune systems can be fragile and they can be susceptible to common diseases up to 2 weeks after their vaccinations so outside traffic is kept to a minimum when I have puppies under 8 weeks of age in my home. However, if you are just getting on the list and want to make sure we're right for each other, I will be happy to allow you to visit even if I have puppies.
What if I can't pick my puppy up when they are ready to leave?
That typically is not a problem as long as it is within 2 weeks of the date they are ready to go. Anything past that and I will offer the puppy to someone else and put you back onto the list for a future litter. You must make arrangements as soon as you are notified that you have a puppy waiting and I start scheduling pick up dates and times. Take note that not being able to get your puppy on the weekend that has been designated for pickup will put you last. This means you will get the last puppy that matches your preferences instead of getting a choice between puppies. That way I can let the rest of the families take their puppies home on time.
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Age of Spay/Neuter
You are not required to alter your dog if you know you can be a responsible pet owner. New research is showing that EARLY spaying/neutering can be more detrimental than not doing it at all. Spaying/neutering while a puppy is still growing removes essential hormones at a critical time and can cause damage to the growth plates as well as damage to the endocrine system that can create problems in your dog's older years. Spaying can also cause "spay incontinence" in a female that would require a daily medication to help. There is much information about all of this on the internet and you are encouraged to do your own research to make an informed decision. My health warranty requires you wait until your pup is at least 6 months of age but I prefer a year. Desexing your Belle Vista pup before 6 months of age voids the health warranty.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enPCZA1WFKY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6cyNhOZCQI
https://healthyandhappydog.com/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3572183/
https://theaggie.org/2013/04/04/uc-davis-study-shows-negative-effects-of-neutering/
https://ivcjournal.com/spay-neuter-considerations/
http://www.akcchf.org/news-events/news/health-implications-in-early.html
https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fvets.2020.00388/full
https://www.gooddog.com/good-breeder-center/rethinking-spay-neuter
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https://www.veterinary-practice.com/article/effects-of-neutering-on-undesirable-behaviours-in-dogs
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https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6070019/
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​​Not everyone wants to deal with a female in heat and it is thought that early neuter on a male dog will inhibit them from learning to lift their leg and urinate on things but I have seen mixed results. For those with a female, know that they typically come into their first heat cycle (the time that they are able to get pregnant) around the age of 6 months (occasionally earlier and sometimes up to 12 months for their first). Unlike women, dogs usually only cycle twice a year at approximately 6 month intervals.
A heat cycle lasts about 21 days and a female needs to be confined, walked on a leash and always monitored when outside throughout that time. Of course, this shouldn't be any different than any other time but owners will really want to make sure she does not get with a male dog that has not been neutered. A fenced yard is not always a strong enough deterrent for a determined male dog. They can and will dig under, jump over, climb, etc. to get to a female that is at the peak of her heat cycle and sometimes a female can be just as determined. They do bleed some during the cycle but most dogs are pretty meticulous about keeping themselves clean. However, if you allow her on the furniture, your bed, etc. it is a good idea to cover it to help keep things clean or put her in some "doggy diapers". Doggy diapers are NOT enough of a deterrent to prevent a male from breeding your female. Do not rely on them for prevention! Some dogs have even been known to have a successful mating through a wire crate or fence! Excessive use of dog diapers can also lead to Urinary Tract Infections because it does not allow the dog to keep themselves clean and holds bacteria close to the vulva. In a female dog with an inverted or hooded vulva, I have personally seen that the swelling that occurs during a heat cycle can help to partially or completely correct it.
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Here is one of many videos about heat cycles:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_e4qYuYa6M4
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​How do I pay for a puppy?
Payment the day of pickup must be in the form of Cash or Good Dog Pay. No personal checks, money orders, PayPal, etc. will be accepted the day of pickup. If paying by check, full payment must be received 20 days before pick up date to allow the check to clear. If you would like to pay with a credit/debit card, I only accept payment through Good Dog. The commitment fee can be paid via Check, Money Order, Cash, Zelle, or Good Dog but payments above that $250 fee must be with Cash, Good Dog, or check with 20 days to clear.
Will my puppy have cropped ears?
All puppies are sold with uncropped ears and I do not offer ear cropping for pet puppies. If you would like to crop ears on a puppy you get from me, you may do so at your own risk and expense. Keep in mind that any anesthesia has the risk of causing complications and this is not covered in your warranty. Please realize that cropping ears is an "art" and not all vets are created equal when it comes to this skill. Also, it takes several weeks of after surgery care to insure a nice cropped ear, so make sure you are committed to it before doing it. Most Vets want to crop between 8 and 12 weeks of age. As with any cosmetic procedure, results are not guaranteed. I am by no means against ear cropping and believe that each owner has the right to choose that for their dog if they like. I've had many puppies cropped in the past and do not think that it is "cruel". Just like children, they are very much in the moment and are running and playing within a few hours of the procedure. They recover much more quickly than a spay or neuter which is also an elective surgery that people do all the time for their convenience so why would I be against a cosmetic procedure?
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Rarely do I have puppies with uncropped ears that go up and look like a donkey but it has happened. Here is a couple videos of how to glue ears to keep them down and folded if it were necessary for your pup.
https://youtu.be/-wpjYDPl6lQ?si=-qozwvTL6qQCv30n​
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Can I get a puppy with a tail?
No. All puppies are sold with docked tails. Tails are docked within 3 days of birth and there is no way I know who is getting which puppy at that early stage. Also, since I always reserve first choice for myself, I don't want a full tail and would hate for the puppy with the tail to turn out to be the best prospect in the litter. The only way I will ever have a puppy with a tail available is if it has a rough start and I'm worried about it.
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What dog food will the puppies have been eating?
Puppies will have been eating Muenster Milling Ancient Grains w/ Chicken. Many people recommend a very low fat food for Miniature Schnauzers with some saying 10% or less. My foods are at 18-20% and I have never had any issues. However, my dogs are not couch potatoes and I deliberately keep them lean. If your dog is still packing on the pounds with a recommended measured feeding, you could try Muenster Milling Perfect Balance Pork w/ Ancient Grains as it is their low fat option. More often than not, it is the quantity of food than the fat percentage but for some reason people feel bad about decreasing the portion. I do not believe in the "grain free" hype and do not recommend grain free food be fed unless is has been proven the dog has an allergy. Here are a couple articles if you are researching food:
https://www.tuftsyourdog.com/dogfoodandnutrition/any-kernels-of-truth-to-claims-that-corn-is-bad-for-your-dog/
https://vetnutrition.tufts.edu/2016/06/why-you-shouldnt-judge-a-pet-food-by-its-ingredient-list/?fbclid=IwAR18_nUo3XINP52Bgbz_o6Sx3t4EcDoAQvZrsCy_kfCJiZ6SXGAdGnsoacU
How often do you feed puppies and how much?
Puppies are being fed 3 times per day at the time they leave here. Typically they get breakfast around 7 a.m., lunch around 1 p.m. and dinner around 7 p.m. It is most helpful to you for housebreaking if they are on a meal schedule. Sometimes they eat a lot and sometimes they will barely touch it depending on their activity level that day. My pups are fed in a group and I always put down more than I know they will eat so that there is no scarcity to cause fighting or gulping. Food has water added to it and soaked for at least 30 minutes before I give it. Whatever doesn't get eaten gets used in the next meal through the day and I discard whatever isn't eaten after the last meal of the day.
On average, a pup will probably eat about 1/3 cup at each meal three times per day. Then it becomes 1/2 cup two times a day. Gauge your pup and if they scarf it down and still act hungry but are not overweight, you could increase their amount a little. If you don't mind a little waste, prepare more than you think you'll need and discard at the end of the day. A measured feeding is highly recommended since adult Schnauzers are known for packing on the pounds which causes some nasty health issues (which will not be covered in the health warranty if your dog is overweight). My adult dogs only get fed once per day and range from 2/3 of a cup for the smaller ones (approx. 15 pounds or less), 1 cup for dogs in the 16-18 pound range, and 1 1/3 cups for the larger dogs that run 19+. This is an average and I closely monitor their weight and condition and adjust. Keep in mind that my dogs are active, playing chase and wrestling in the yard, and get almost no treats. If you have a couch potato and you are giving treats 2-3 times a day, probably 1/2 a cup to 2/3 of a cup a day is plenty. Erring on the side of lean is better than a fat Schnauzer! Just like with the puppies, sometimes they scarf it down and sometimes they barely touch it. As long as their behavior is normal, I don't let it bother me and I don't try to entice them to eat.
It is best to limit the amount of treats they get and don't feed free choice to adult dogs. Treats should be freeze-dried meat like what Muenster offers, limited ingredient meat based treats, or fresh veggies such as carrot sticks and green beans. Mine love apples but I limit that because of all the sugar. You can also use a portion of the kibble in your dog's regular measured meal as a treat for training. Coming from your hand, it is still a treat to them and when training is done, they can have the rest for their meal.

Will my puppy be housebroke by the time I take it home?
No. By the time they are ready to leave they are typically litter box trained. However, if left the run of the house they will "forget" to go outside or go to the litter box because they are so easily sidetracked at that age. Some puppies house train easier than others and a lot of it depends on the person doing the house training. With a consistent schedule and someone that has been good about watching them, by about 6 months they usually have the system down pretty well as far as being able to "ask" to go outside or to go find their litter box. However, some can be slower and I've had some owners tell me that it didn't "click" with their dog until they were almost a year. I'll be honest, I'm awful at house training! I'm way too easily distracted and have too much other stuff going on. There is a reason I have doggy doors. :-)
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I use a litter box with all of my puppies starting at about 3 weeks. The litter in the box consists of Alfalfa Pellets made for horse food which can be purchased at stores like Tractor Supply, Rural King, or any local feed mill. The alfalfa pellets give it a grass smell so that it is easier for puppies to transition to going potty on grass. I pick solids out of the litter to flush down the toilet, throw in the trash, or add to a compost heap/garden bed and stir the litter twice a day to keep it fresh. I use a kitty litter scoop to shake out the pellets that have gotten wet and turned to dust, discard the dust and put the dry pellets back in the box. With a litter of puppies I change out the litter every 2 days. For a single pup, it can go several days or even a week between dumping the litter and replacing it with new. I also start puppies going outside during the day when they are about 5 weeks of age so they are used to pottying outside but don't know how to ask to go out yet.
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The easiest way to house train is to make sure that you also crate train or use an exercise pen or baby gates for a small enclosure. The puppy should be crated any time that someone isn't watching him/her. It only takes a puppy a matter of seconds to potty and if you are not watching them you could easily miss it. The puppies are used to a crate or exercise pen here but they share that space with their siblings, so when they first go to a new home they may whine/cry because they are alone. Many people break down and won't crate them and then complain that there are "accidents" in the house. Puppies will not potty in their crate unless they absolutely can not hold it any longer and as long as the crate isn't too big. Also, keep in mind that if your dog ever needs to be boarded for a vacation or would have to stay at a vet's office for any reason, they will most likely be crated and if not already crate trained, it will make an already stressful situation even more stressful. You are doing everyone, including the dog, a favor by making sure it is crate trained. You will find that as your puppy grows, it will enjoy having it's own private space and many dogs will go in the crate on their own for naps and quiet time.
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I also recommend that when your pup is not in his crate that you tether him to you. Simply put on his leash and attach the leash handle to your belt/belt loop with a double ended snap or carabineer. This keeps the pup from being able to sneak away and get into trouble. Once your pup learns good house manners and is housetrained, you can stop tethering and move to using baby gates to keep him out of areas that he needs to avoid. Keeping your pup tethered to you can also dissuade the "catch me if you can!" game and will help promote a good recall and/or heel command. With your puppy tethered to you, you can move away from your puppy and tell him "come" and if he doesn't come to you right away, you can use the leash to encourage your puppy toward you. This will easily help with the "catch me" game because they can't run away from you and the game is quickly ended. If every time you move away from your puppy you tell him "heel" and use the leash to have him walk with you on your left side, they will quickly learn that command also.
There is a ton of information about potty training but here are a few links to get you started:
https://youtu.be/JRVCbd4pQOI?si=jvkWuDbTIwGfhRF5
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLtszjL2zcg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf6_E1TRYxU
Have the puppies been vet checked?
Three times! Dr. Karen Henry of Buckeye Mobile Veterinary gives the puppies a physical exam at 6 and 9 weeks of age and gives them their first two sets of vaccinations. Her # is 614-563-3166 if you would like to talk with her or if you are just in search of a new vet for yourself. Her service is mobile and she comes to your house for all basic care which is really great for me since I have more dogs than I could comfortably take in to a vet’s office at one time. Also works great for dogs that don't travel well or that are just plain embarrassing at a veterinary office. She works in and around Franklin and Licking counties. Her website is: http://www.buckeyemobilevet.com/ The puppies are also seen by Dr. Eric Miller (board certified Veterinary Ophthalmologists) from COVE in Delaware, Ohio for their eye exams before going to new homes.

Do I get to pick my puppy or do you tell me which one I can have?
Typically, your deposit will reserve the order in which you choose a puppy. However, I know for people wanting a pet, color and gender are usually very important. If someone wants a black male and there is only one black male in the litter, that is the puppy they will be offered and I will take deposits on the other puppies without giving that person a choice. If color is not an issue there could possibly be more choices. Most puppies are very malleable at the age that they go home and new owners can make or break the temperament that develops.

How many different breeds do you have?
Mini Schnauzers have been my focus since 2005 and I feel like I know the breed and most of my bloodlines pretty well.

Do you have a building for your dogs?
Yes, I do. It is called my home. A bedroom has been converted into the "puppy room" where puppies are born and raised. A 2020 addition to the house was created specifically for the dogs where they are crated at night to keep them from roaming and barking. There are also 3 separate yards with doggy doors that allow for them to play and exercise in smaller groups that I know will get along well. It is more of a kennel setup than some people agree with but it works well for me and the dogs are happy. In 2022 I added a small temperature controlled building with some kennel runs that are used for daytime turnout only. This helps prevent any squabbles between males, unplanned pregnancies, and is a nice secure and safer turnout area for puppies.

What type of health testing do you have done on your breeding dogs?
All breeding dogs have had a cardiac auscultation exam with a board certified Veterinary Cardiologist after their first birthday that is submitted to OFA, their eyes examined by a veterinary ophthalmologist and certified on an annual basis, and have all been cleared with routine physical exams annually including an exam for patella luxation (although not submitted to OFA). All are DNA tested through the German lab known as Laboklin with their Miniature Schnauzer Combination test that includes Charcot-Marie-Tooth Neuropathy (CMT), Mycobacterium avium complex sensitivity (MAC), Myotonia congenita, Persistent Müllerian duct syndrome (PMDS), Progressive retinal atrophy (Type B1-PRA, HIVEP3) and Spondylocostal dysostosis (Comma defect). Before I switched to Laboklin, I did a panel test through Embarkvet.com which covers a bunch of stuff unrelated to the breed but does cover Myotonia Congenita, Persistent Mullerian Duct Syndrome (PMDS), and Factory XII clotting deficiency. Miniature Schnauzers are not prone to hip or elbow dysplasia so those are not recommended tests for this breed and is also why this breed does not need to wait until after 2 years of age to be bred. As new tests are developed and proven effective, they will be added.
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Do you ever offer Full AKC registration with breeding rights?
Very rarely. Select individuals may be able to purchase a puppy for show/breeding. Show/Breeding potential puppies are determined by me and not all puppies will make the cut for that designation. Show/Breeding potential is exactly that, POTENTIAL. There are no guarantees to the dog finishing a championship or being able to produce puppies. These puppies are sold with a co-ownership agreement, meaning that my name remains on the paperwork as a partial owner and all breeding plans must be run past me for approval.
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How often do your females have puppies?
There have been several studies done on what is healthier for a breeding female and the results of these studies conclusively show that it is healthier for a female to be bred every heat instead of every other heat (I have attached articles below). I do not believe that because you breed every heat that you should continue to breed as long as those that don't breed every heat, which means that my breeding females retire earlier than those breeders that breed every other heat. My girls are usually retired by 4-5 years old and off to a new loving home to enjoy retirement. This way they are breeding in their prime when it is healthier and safer for dam and puppies. While it is healthier for the reproductive organs to breed every heat, my girls aren't "just a uterus" and I use common sense and veterinary advice to make sure that they are healthy and carrying good weight before breeding again. I also judge case by case what is right for each of my females and her health. If the litter was incredibly large, required a c-section, or seemed to be really stressful, than I will skip to allow more time for recovery if I think it is necessary.
Miniature Schnauzers are not a breed that recommends Hip or Elbow x-rays to be certified for dysplasia at 2 years of age so all health testing can be completed by 1 year old. My girls are typically bred for their first litter around 1.5 years of age. They are full grown adults at that point and the equivalent of a 20 year old person.
Here are a few articles:
Dr. Robert Van Hutchison Reproduction Seminar 12/8/02
Breeding A Female Dog Back-To-Back: What the Experts Say
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Video Interview with Dr. Hutchison
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